Before you arrive

What you need to know

Singapore surprises you from the moment you step off the plane. Ultra-modern, incredibly green, cleaner than anywhere I'd ever been, and absolutely cosmopolitan, it's literally the crossroads of Asia. Malaysians, Indians, Chinese, Europeans all coexist in an urban space that has achieved something quite rare: making concrete jungle and nature live side by side.

Visa: no visa required for EU, UK and US citizens. Fill in a few arrival documents, pass through immigration, and that's it. Easy and fast.

Accommodation: Singapore is expensive. For a layover, a hostel is really the best option, there are good ones in the city centre, easy to find on Booking. I won't recommend a specific one, but filter by central location and recent reviews.

Transport: Grab and Zig work well; you can also flag down taxis, but it's pricey. My advice: keep transfers to a minimum. Ideally airport → hostel, one trip to the centre, walk everywhere after, hostel → airport. Four trips maximum for the whole layover.

Before even leaving the airport

Jewel Changi Airport

The spectacular Rain Vortex indoor waterfall at Jewel Changi Airport, surrounded by a tropical indoor forest under a glass dome

Before even leaving the airport, take time to wander through Jewel Changi. It's the connecting hall between terminals, and it's probably the most spectacular airport in the world. A 40-metre indoor waterfall right in the centre of the building, surrounded by an indoor tropical forest, with dozens of restaurants from every cuisine. It's massive, it's beautiful, and it's free.

💰 Free : open access from all terminals · Allow 30-45 minutes minimum

The unmissable

Gardens by the Bay

Collage of Gardens by the Bay in Singapore: Flower Dome, exotic flowers, Supertrees and Marina Bay Sands in the background

After dropping off your bags, head straight to Gardens by the Bay : the absolute must-see. A 101-hectare park on the bay's edge, home to the famous Supertrees (those giant plant structures that look straight out of science fiction), two spectacular glass domes, and sweeping views over the Marina Bay skyline.

Access to the outdoor gardens and Supertrees is entirely free. The domes cost entry, but they're completely worth it:

Cloud Forest : a 35-metre indoor waterfall inside a real cloud forest, with carnivorous plants, orchids and ferns. The cool temperature and incredible scents make it a welcome bubble of freshness in Singapore's heat. My personal favourite.

Flower Dome : the world's largest glass greenhouse, housing floral species from every continent. Staggering in its scale.

My tip: visit the domes in the afternoon, then come back in the evening for Garden Rhapsody : the light and sound show on the Supertrees. Every evening at 7:45pm and 8:45pm, about 15 minutes long, and completely free. It's magical.

💰 Outdoor gardens: free · Cloud Forest + Flower Dome: ~30 SGD (~£18/€21) · Garden Rhapsody: free

Into the city

Chinatown & the business district

Collage showing Singapore's contrasts: CBD skyscrapers and the colourful shophouse facades of Chinatown

From Gardens by the Bay, head up to Chinatown. Wander through the colourful streets, street markets and temples, the atmosphere is completely different from the rest of the city. Then let yourself drift towards the business district and Raffles Place: you go from buzzing Chinatown to glass-and-steel skyscraper canyons in just a few minutes. The contrast is striking, and it's one of those moments where you realise just how extraordinary Singapore really is.

💰 Free : just wander the streets · Maxwell Food Centre near Chinatown for cheap local food (5-8 SGD a dish)

The sunset spot

Level 33, rooftop with a view

Your walk through the skyscrapers can take you straight to the best sunset spot in the city. LeVeL33 is the world's highest urban craft brewery, on the 33rd floor of Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 1, with a 180° panoramic view over the bay, the Supertrees, Marina Bay Sands and the entire skyline.

I preferred this over the Marina Bay Sands observation deck (much more expensive and touristy) because here you're inside the buildings, you look at the skyline rather than being part of it, and the view is, in my opinion, even more beautiful and complete.

You don't need to dine, one drink is enough to enjoy the terrace. The beers are brewed on-site and excellent.

Happy hour: Monday to Friday 3pm–6pm
Dress code: smart casual, no flip-flops, no tank tops
💰 One drink: ~18-25 SGD (£11-15 / €13-18) · Booking recommended in the evening
Address: 8 Marina Boulevard #33-01, Marina Bay Financial Centre Tower 1

My favourite moment

Marina Bay by night

Singapore by night: colourfully lit Supertrees, Marina Bay Sands and the CBD skyline reflected in the bay

After the Garden Rhapsody show at Gardens by the Bay, walk along the waterfront from the gardens towards the Marina. At night, it's a different city altogether. Buildings light up, their reflections shimmer in the bay, the promenades are quiet and peaceful, it's my favourite moment of the entire layover.

Along the way you pass the ArtScience Museum (the huge white lotus floating on the water), then stroll along the waterfront promenade to Marina Bay Sands. The indoor mall is monumental and ultra-luxury, free to enter, perfect for people-watching, grabbing a bite at one of the many restaurants, or simply marvelling at the architecture.

Then a quiet walk back to your hostel, and off to the airport for the next leg of the adventure.

💰 Waterfront walk: free · Marina Bay Sands Mall: free entry

The numbers

Budget recap for a layover

Expense SGD EUR / GBP
Hostel dorm (1 night) 35-50 SGD ~€25-35 / £21-30
Grab/Taxi (4 trips) 40-60 SGD ~€28-42 / £24-36
Jewel Changi Free Free
Gardens by the Bay (domes) ~30 SGD ~€21 / £18
Garden Rhapsody (show) Free Free
Level 33 (one drink) ~20-25 SGD ~€14-18 / £12-15
Meals (local hawker centres) ~15-25 SGD ~€10-18 / £9-15
Total estimate ~140-190 SGD ~€100-130 / £85-110

Singapore is expensive, no point pretending otherwise. But for a layover between two destinations, the experience-to-cost ratio is genuinely excellent. And you discover an entire country you might never have put on your list.

Tip: hawker centres are your best friends for eating well and cheaply, expect to pay 5-8 SGD per dish. Maxwell Food Centre near Chinatown is a safe bet.

Stopping over in Singapore?

Questions about the layover, organisation, flights? Write to me.