Java,
2 weeks off the beaten track

One tip first: if you have a choice, start with Java and end with Bali. Most travellers do it the other way around because Bali is the natural entry point, but Bali after Java feels magical, while Java after Bali can feel like a shock. I did Bali → Java by accident, by meeting people who told me about it on the spot, and it worked out great, but I'd recommend the other order if you can plan it in advance.

Lots of ground to cover. Java is big, really big. Between each stop there are hours of buses, trains and taxis. That's part of the adventure, but you need to plan for it, don't underestimate distances, and build a logical itinerary.

Barely touristy. We were met with genuinely surprised looks in several places, people astonished to see tourists, curious smiles, sincere "where are you going?" moments. It's refreshing and touching, but it also means fewer facilities, less English spoken, and less traveller infrastructure.

A very Muslim island. The call to prayer marks the rhythm of the day, five times a day from the mosques. It's beautiful, immersive, it's Java. Respect dress codes, especially near religious sites.

Travelling solo? Completely doable — friends of mine did it alone and came back raving. The key is to team up with other travellers for Bromo and Ijen, because shared taxis cost a fraction of solo hire and it's a great way to meet people. Pack smart before you leave: check out everything I put in my backpack and my pre-departure checklist.

Night bus Bali → Malang (12–14h) → Malang (2–3 days) → Train Malang → Probolinggo → Mount Bromo (2–3 days) → Train Probolinggo → Banyuwangi → Mount Ijen (optional, 1–2 days) → Train → Semarang → Jepara → Karimunjawa (5 days) → Taxi Yogyakarta (2–3 days) → Flight home

Night bus from Bali, allow 12 to 14 hours on the road. Comfortable, practical, and you arrive early in the morning. It's the perfect baptism for getting into the right Java mindset. Drop your bag and dive straight into the city.

01

The coloured villages

Two villages side by side — half a day

There are actually two small villages to visit right next to each other: Kampung Warna-Warni Jodipan and Kampung Tridi. Working-class neighbourhoods painted entirely in vivid colours, tumbling down to the river. The walls, staircases, rooftops: all painted. It's alive, genuine, nothing like a theme park. The residents transformed their surroundings into an explosion of colour. Go early in the morning to have the alleyways to yourself.

💰 Entrance: a few thousand rupiah (~€0.30) · Best visited early morning

02

Tumpak Sewu waterfall

Full-day trip from Malang · ~2h drive each way

The most impressive waterfall I have ever seen, and I've seen a few. It pours in a curtain several hundred metres wide from the rim of a volcanic caldera. Nicknamed the "Indonesian Niagara", it's a breathtaking sight. The path down to the base is slippery and steep — good shoes are essential — but the reward at the bottom is indescribable. Absolutely worth the 2-hour drive from Malang.

Getting there: hire a driver for the round trip and negotiate the price from Malang. Allow 2 to 2.5 hours each way, so plan a full day for this.

Train from Malang to Probolinggo (book on Traveloka or KAI Access). It's an experience in itself — we were the only tourists in the carriage. Curious locals, warm looks, conversations through gestures and smiles. That's Java. From Probolinggo, taxi to Ngadisari then Cemorolawang, the village at the foot of the volcano.

I'll be honest: I didn't make it to Ijen on my trip. We hadn't planned it well enough, and by that point in the journey I didn't have the energy. But every single person I've spoken to who did it says the same thing, unanimously: it's an absolute must if you can fit it in.

Where does it fit in this itinerary? The most logical slot is between Bromo and Karimunjawa. From Probolinggo, take the train to Banyuwangi (around 5h), sleep there, do Ijen overnight, then head back towards Semarang. No backtracking, it fits perfectly into the flow.

What it is: Kawah Ijen is an active volcano whose crater holds a sulphurous turquoise lake considered the most acidic in the world. And at night, electric blue flames shoot from the crater floor — one of the rarest natural phenomena in Indonesia. The trek starts around 1am to see the flames before dawn, then watch the sunrise from the crater rim. Magical, by all accounts.

Train from Banyuwangi (or Probolinggo if you skipped Ijen) to Semarang, then taxi to Jepara, and from there the ferry to Karimunjawa. Book the ferry ahead of time in high season.

Karimunjawa is the anti-Bali. An archipelago of 27 islands in the Java Sea, almost unknown to Western tourists, where fishermen still haul their nets by hand and the turquoise beaches are deserted all day long. This is why you come to Java.

Rent a scooter as soon as you arrive — essential for circling the main island, finding hidden spots and moving around freely.

Last stop, and not the least. Yogyakarta, or "Jogja" to the locals, is the cultural and artistic capital of Java. Batik, wayang puppets, gamelan music, and temples that leave you speechless.

In the city: Malioboro Street for shopping and atmosphere, the Kraton (the sultan's palace, still inhabited), and batik workshops where you can watch the fabric being made.

Borobudur Temple: the largest Buddhist temple in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, about 40km away by Grab or taxi (~45min). Arrive at opening time to beat the crowds and the heat — hundreds of stupas and carved reliefs across multiple levels telling the story of Buddhism. Monumental, in the most literal sense. Allow at least half a day.